Fly to Mexico City & Uber to Casa Decu in Condessa.
Dinner at Califafor a variety of tacos, pastors, beers, guacamole, wine, etc …
Monday March 25
uberxl to Museo Suyama – opened at 1030. Got thru security – has to check backpacks and candy – and walked spiral staircase to top and worked our way down. Kind of an obscene amount of art – top floor mostly Rodin – looked like a Rodin graveyard – and then some girlandaios and Cranach and tons of others. Entry contained rodin’s doors of hell and the thinker. Ubered to sanborns house of tiles for a terrible lunch (taquitos, weird wings for Duncan, guac, enchiladas in green soup, chiliquilis) but an interesting building … with an orozco mural in the stairway … strolled to post office to see Art Deco stairwell and birdcage elevator and quite an impressive space for a post office. Walked to public education building and signed in and say three floors of Diego Rivera murals painted in 1924-25 … amazing depictions of life of the rich and the poor … walked to metropolitan cathedral via a stop for drinks (temp around 80 and a bit windy) – a hodge lodge of designs – a smaller cathedral attached that they called a tabernacle and then the big cathedral which is the seat of Roman Catholic Church in Mexico … ubered to Roma and met Chris our guide for the Street Art Chilango tour – a two hour walk around roma where we learned about the different street artists and movements and graffiti artists etc … went to el Moro for churros and “little consolations” – churro ice cream sandwiches … Uber back to hotel. Dinner at Azul – sat upstairs and had chicken mole, tortilla soup etc . . .
Tuesday March 26
Up early, Kate and I went for juices nearby at ojo … super yummy. Ubered to coyocan for our Context frida Diego love story tour and got there early .. so we walked around … found a good market but it wasn’t really open … Met our guide Julio left of museum door at 10:15 … we had 1030 tickets so he talked about the house and then we went in and sat in the garden and learned other stuff before we entered the house … had only one photography ticket per group and it fell to me. it was amazing to see her art, her studio, her daytime bedroom with mirror above the bed for self portrait, the nighttime bedroom … the urn with her ashes .. her easel and wheelchair … the gardens were beautiful and the house next door had an exhibit with her clothing, jewels, some givenchy riffs of her clothing. Walked from there to Leon Trotsky’s house – very barricaded from the steeet cause of threat of Assisination, Windows were plastered over, he had a few study areas where he worked on writings and again nice gardens where he grew cacti and raised chickens. Got in an Uber and drove to theater that had a huge Diego mosaic mural above it … and then drove to sant angel to the studios of frida and Diego … separates by a bridge. Didn’t see fridas but Diego’s was cool with all these Judas’s and artifacts etc … a cacti fence surrounded it. Ubered back to hotel and walked to Mercado Roma for a drink. Walked to Merkava for dinner …. middle eastern food – pretty amazing … roasted cauliflower, hummus, couldn’t make empanadas or lamb due to power outage, chicken Kabab s for girls, meat kebabs that looked like long sausages for the boys. walked back to hotel …
Wednesday, March 27
Up early, grabbed coffee and croissant at ojo and took uber to museo templo mayor .. met Ignacio our Context Tour guide and had a nice tour of the museum … After, we went around the corner to the Palacio National – there was a short line and we went in to this gorgeous cloistered complex where the President lives but also where Diego painted a ton of murals. One couldn’t wear sunglasses inside and security was tight cause it is the Presidents residence. Then we walked to the belles artes … but only walked in … and then walked across alameda park to the Diego mural museum to see dream of a Sunday afternoon in alameda park – fab. Took Uber to to Polanco. We went to el bajio for lunch around 145 – good guacamole and tacos and quesadillas and tostadas and cervezas … walked to Oronco – I got candlesticks and placemats and then walked to Lagos DF and Irea? And adidas and Zara. Polanco is the hi end of CDMX and in places it felt like Paris. Still, not a lot of stuff we were tempted to buy … oh, I got a short rain coat at Zara. Uber back to hotel – went for pizza dinner at ardente – super good – part of the Napoleon pizza group … Walked back to hotel.
Thursday, March 28th
Girls went to Ojo for sit down breakfast … Lee and I had avocado toast with eggs and sprouts and truffle something … I had a green juice and some of Martha’s almond croissant … kate had plainish croissant …walked around hotel with Lee and then said our goodbys … we ubered to anthropology museum and loved the space and focused on Aztecs and Mayan … big school groups in track suits were crowding up the place.
Walked to a very cool starbucks and strolled through Chapultepec Park … then caught an Uber to Luis Barragan house. We were 45 mins early so we sat in the garden and walked around … at 1230 they let us in and we put on our blue booties and began our hour tour of his house and studio. Amazing. Fun use of pink and yellow … ubered to Lalo in Roma for a yummy lunch – stuffed zucchini flowers with mole and jam, Kate got carbonara and Martha and I split a corned beef sandwich on great bread … walked to Roma quince … cool but bought nothing … then walked to carla Fernández via delicio – nothing – then walked to 180 – nothing – and to Rosetta bakery – jammed – and then up to candy shop – disappointing. Got in uber to market – I got a frida picture and Kate got a felt heart tassel … then we ubered to Downtown shops where downtown hotel is … nice shops but nothing … and ubered back to hotel. Got beers at corona store and sat on roof … then went to la capital for dinner. Pleasantly surprised after an initial thought that it was not going to be good .. lots of Americans … had guac with fried plaintains and potato chips … and shrimp tacos that were rolled and a beef tortilla thing … kate had penne with goat cheese but she didn’t eat much of it … margaritas for mms and Kate, Spanish white wine for me. Walked back to hotel.
Friday
Up early and coffee on roof and packed and went to ojo for purify and almond croissant split. Great people watching. checked out of hotel around 830 and ubered to airport.
